Wooden chairs scrape against the tiled floor as diners eagerly tuck into Slow Food–accredited culatello di Zibello (lard) at this 250-year-old trattoria. Other Mantuan specialities feature, such as risotto alla pilota (rice studded with sausage meat) and local classic tortelli di zucca (pumpkin ravioli with melted butter and sage).
Dine in the back room and you'll be surrounded by bright homemade art amid stacks of wine crates.