Sciamadda

This much-loved local snack spot serves up Ligurian delicacies, including fried anchovies and calamari, pasqualina (an artichoke tort), trofie al pesto (a type of pesto pasta) and fresh-from-the-oven focaccia. It's a tiny space, so order your mini feast da portare via (takeaway) or hunker down at one of the stools where you can watch the cooks in action.