Brace yourself for lunchtime mayhem. This is a totally authentic, if well touristed, workers' trattoria and there's much squeezing into tiny tables, shouted orders and a fast and furious succession of plates plonked on tables. A daily hand-scrawled menu is a roll call of elemental favourites that keep all comers full and happy, along with the jugs of ridiculously cheap wine.
Cross your fingers you're there on a minestrone alla Genovese, pesto lasagne or donkey ragù day – pure Ligurian bliss. Dinner hours are slightly less hectic, but still fun.