If the bread’s good, usually all else will follow and so it goes in this old town cantina-restaurant whose single arched entrance leads into a labyrinth of brick-lined alcoves creatively decorated with bottles of wine. The menu's an extravaganza of underrated Molise food, simple but effective recipes like cacio e pepe with added pancetta, stewed meats, and creamy herb-laden risottos.
Even the chips are fabulous.