Al Bagatto

This old-timer, with its dark, brooding dining room, does a Triestine seafood degustazione – a crudo (raw fish) and something involving squid ink will invariably play a part – that's daunting but delicious. The 'seasonal creative' menu is just that, or you can try ordering like the suited regulars: the freshest of fish by the etto (100g), weighed and filleted at the table.