Opera-loving, English-speaking Giovanni is a consummate host at this sensible Oltretorrente choice, which offers well-equipped rooms, studios and one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments. All are within pleasant walking distance of the historical centre, yet are far enough removed from the hubbub to make you feel like a local.
Fruits and breads are delivered to your door each morning, along with any city tips you could ever want or need. It's especially popular with composers, actors and singers, whose autographed messages dot the B&B.