Antico Leon d'Oro

Eat in the courtyard of this friendly, festive place, just over the Ponte del Diavolo, and, if you're in luck, watch a polenta cook stir the pot. Dishes here couldn't be more regional: sublime d'Osvaldo prosciutto crudo (cured ham); seasonal pasta enlivened with asparagus and sclupit (a mountain herb); a Friulian tasting plate of frico, salami and herbed frittata; and roast venison.