Follow the signs to La Piazzetta from the castle, via a short tunnel, and blink hard when you emerge at this movie-set marvel of a piazza, with its terraced restaurants, pastel-coloured houses and overflowing flower-boxes. Divino's menu has local favourites like pasta e fagioli (pasta and white beans) and grilled swordfish, plus well-priced daily menus.
Divino is fittingly traditional, right down to the chequered tablecloths. Grab the romantic table on the small terrace for the best views.