Vicolo della Neve

A city institution on a scruffy street, this is the archetypal centro storico trattoria, with brick arches, fake frescoes and walls hung with works by local artists. The menu is unwaveringly authentic, with pizzas, calzoni, peperoni ripieni (stuffed peppers) and a top-notch parmigiana di melanzane (baked eggplant). It can get incredibly busy: book in advance, especially later in the week.