For a more formal sit-down meal, follow the locals and ascend Assaraya’s wood-panelled staircase from the main gate into the Old City. Take a seat in the restaurant’s two-storey glass atrium, which overlooks Martyrs Sq. The tables are adorned with folded white napkins and wine glasses (although there is no wine, this being Nablus), and the restaurant serves a mixture of Western and Arabic fare.