With 12 sleep-on-floor rooms (two of them en suite) ranged round a central well and fountain pool, Arg Ecolodge is one of Khorasan's most delightful rural guesthouses. The long-ruined adobe villa of a former village 'governor', it has been lovingly restored with small windtowers, roof-top terraces, crenellated walls and even a little aviary corner for pigeons.
It's essential to booking at least two days ahead as the place is not permanently staffed.