Billed as the 'Country Above the Clouds', the long north–south ridge line looming to the west of Rantepao certainly has spectacular views – especially at sunrise when the valley below is often filled with fog leaving just the tips of the highest karst peaks showing through. There are multiple official viewpoints mobbed by carloads of tourists; of them, Tongkonan Lempe is our favourite with its view across impressive rice terraces to Batutumonga ridge.