An unexpected find in the gritty port town of Singkil is this attractive traditional house featuring a polished-wood interior, antiques and plenty of books. It's by far the nicest place to stay here, with well-priced rooms that have mosquito nets, bathrooms and Acehenese coffee cakes for breakfast. It's just off the main street, and a good place to meet fellow travellers to share boat costs.
The lovely elderly owner answers text messages with the help of English-speaking guides, including Mr Darmawan, his nephew.
