Rainforest Lodge has simple but pleasant bungalows along a river in beautiful jungle surrounds, with plenty of opportunities for wildlife-spotting. Let Mr Jally here know in advance that you're coming. It's a 50-minute walk from Kedah village and is literally in the middle of nowhere. Rooms are basic; some have attached bathrooms. Bring your own towel and toiletries.
Mr Jally can organise jungle treks for around 500,000Rp per day, including food and guide; these are serious adventures, from the three-day summit of Gunung Angkosan to a six-day expedition to an immense waterfall in the upper Alas Valley. Shorter treks can also be arranged, including night treks. Park permit fees are collected intermittently and the cost is not included.