Housed in a faded but charming art deco structure built in 1926, Vogels is a backpacker institution that's barely changed since it opened in 1978 – even the prices have stayed pretty much the same! Rooms have retro furnishings and lots of character and this is undoubtedly the best address for hikers. There are cosy bungalows at the rear.
The owner, Christian Awuy, is an authority on Merapi and its many moods and has been guiding hikers into the national park for decades. Aged over 70 and now about to retire, he's training up the next generation to take on the mantle – not easy given the volatility of the landscape.
Vogels has a veritable library of information, with books and maps on the area, and popular hikes on the shoulders of Merapi are organised from here. The most popular hike (five hours, 350,000Rp per person including professional English-speaking guide and food; excluding park entrance fee) starts out at 4am with a briefing and film and ascends to a good viewpoint for sunrise. Five-hour birdwatching tours begin at 5am with chances to spot green parrots and kingfishers, macaques and deer.
The restaurant (mains 15,000Rp to 30,000Rp) offers the best food in town, including dishes from Sulawesi, Western classics and a fantastic selection of coffee beans. Beer can be arranged too.
