Built in 1757, the Mangkunegaran Palace in the centre of Solo is still a royal residence. Some rooms are dedicated to a delightful palace museum devoted to the personal collection of Mangkunegara VII. On display are gold-plated dresses for royal dances, a superb mask collection, jewellery and a few oddities, including huge Buddhist rings, a stuffed Javanese leopard and tiger, and gold genital covers. The worthwhile, mandatory guides mostly speak English (a tip of 30,000Rp plus is appreciated).
The pendopo, a pavilion built in a combination of Javanese and European architectural styles, dominates the main courtyard. Its high, rounded ceiling, painted in 1937, is intricately decorated with a central flame surrounded by figures of the Javanese zodiac, each depicted in a symbolic colour. In Javanese philosophy, yellow guards against sleepiness, blue against disease, black against hunger, green against desire, white against lust, rose against fear, red against evil and purple against wicked thoughts. Gamelan music, singing and dance-practice sessions are held here on Wednesday, from 10am until noon.