This budget lodge has an excellent location in the Kebun Balawan coffee plantation, close to hot springs and a waterfall. Rooms are divided between its original wooden Dutch planters lodge (c 1894), which features a decrepit yet wildly atmospheric sitting area, or better maintained and cleaner rooms around its sparkling, chilly pool and hot tub (from 4pm).
The place is often booked out, but it can arrange homestays if full. Most tour groups don't arrive until the evening, so it's a lovely place to relax during the day.
It's a 10-minute walk to a hot-springs complex (7am to 4pm; 5000Rp entry); an impressive waterfall is nearby.
Staff do their best considering the remote location, and the meals (65,000Rp set dinner menu) are quite good and beers reasonably priced. An ojek from Sempol is around 50,000Rp; to get to Ijen it's about 200,000Rp return.