The turtle hatchery at Ngagelan is set in a protected, fenced-off plot behind the beach, where rangers who have collected the eggs keep them piled and dated under the brown sand, shielding them from birds and other predators. The beach itself, where four species of turtles nest – including greens and leatherbacks – is wide, majestic and 18km long. You can see the light-brown sand arc along the coast all the way to G-Land. You can't swim here, though, as the rip tide is all powerful.
Turtles emerge from the sea under the cover of night, and after they lay their eggs, the rangers gather them and place them in the hatchery where they will gestate for 50 days before hatching and seeking the sea. To get here, it's a 6km drive from Rowobendo through lowland forest along a rough road, or a 7km walk along the beach at low tide from Trianggulasi. A ranger will gladly show you around, but he won't speak much English.