This hillside hotel feels like a large, comfortable house, and has clean, tasteful rooms, a big-windowed cafe with espresso machine, books and a peaceful hilltop garden setting. Wing A has a more homely feel than Wing B. Head up to its rooftop for wonderful river views. There are mountain bikes for rent (per day ₹300) and cooking classes (per person ₹2750).
It's off the Gangotri road 3km north of town. Reservations essential.