This famous Mussoorie hotel, built in 1902, underwent a seven-year renovation to restore it to its magnificent former glory, imparting a regal atmosphere with none of the rundown air that often infuses historic properties. Bedrooms, however, feel strangely generic. The restaurant is both an aesthetic and a culinary experience, as is its refined Writers Bar (happy hour 6pm to 8pm).
Its modern gym comes as a bonus for working off all those carbs.