Simply gorgeous, this beautifully restored and maintained colonial-style haveli (traditional, ornately decorated residence) overlooking Assi Ghat is crammed with books, antiques and classy furniture. Rooms are spacious and immaculate, and there are some charming communal areas in which to relax, including a lovely 1st-floor garden terrace. Book ahead.
A tip: room 19 has the best Ganges view.