In Kanota Bagh, just south of the city, this genuine heritage hotel has genuine heritage splendour. There’s a lavish dining room with liveried staff, an old-fashioned verandah on which to drink tea, and antiques galore. The standard rooms are in a garden wing and aren't as spacious as the high-ceilinged deluxe rooms (₹14,720), which vary in atmosphere and amenities.
A new wing of deluxe rooms features a lift and modern rooms with a few tasteful traditional flourishes. Out back you’ll find a large secluded pool (nonguests ₹300 for two hours between 8am and 4pm – guests only after 4pm), a heavenly spa, and sprawling lawns and tree-shaded gardens adorned with strutting peacocks.