Run by a very hospitable family, this long-running place has been hosting happy travellers for years (though slow internet often derails their ability to register – and therefore accept – foreigners); the house dates back to 1875. Spacious rooms with high ceilings and arty touches are in two blocks at the rear of the leafy garden. Good breakfasts and drinks are available.
Ask Maria to show you her amazing mineral and crystal collection, introduce you to her chai-swilling dog Poojari or to give you the room that Life of Pi author Yann Martel slept in. Call ahead to check on the registration situation.