For a bit of rustic cultural immersion, good-hearted man about town Sadeek and his uncle Rafiq have four simple rooms in their village home, 2km from the caves (and the crowds). The three best rooms open out onto a breezy terrace with farmland and mountain views and feature renovated en suite bathrooms with sit-down flush toilets and 24-hour hot water.
Grandma cooks up poha (flattened rice with spices), upma (semolina cooked with onions, spices, chilli peppers and coconut) and aloo paratha (potato-filled flatbread) for breakfast. Fancy it ain't, but the hospitality makes up for it. Wi-fi is ₹50 per day.