The most central and popular of Ujjain’s river ghats, strung with orange- and pink-roofed shrines, is busy all day with people bathing and presenting gifts of milk or flowers to the Shipra River. It's most atmospheric at dawn or dusk when the devout chime cymbals and light candles at the water’s edge. During festival times, waves of people sweep to and from the river in a thrilling example of religious devotion.