Gaur Niwas is a classical if mostly ungentrified heritage house where you can savour meals from tandoori trout to fair-value thalis to penne alla zingara sitting at little slate-roofed garden pavilions or on the house's upper wooden balconies.
In the lower garden, the simpler, co-owned Hot Spice is entirely open air with a similar menu and prices up to ₹50 per dish less. Access to both is up the lane behind tourist office. Service is very obliging.
Two of the four guest rooms (doubles from ₹1000) upstairs within Gaur Niwas are gigantic former lounge-halls. They maintain original varnished wood ceilings, old floorboards and fireplaces, but are rather bare and have faltering fittings.
