Central, yet set around a peaceful garden-courtyard with seating beneath apricot trees, this long-standing favourite has old-fashioned but well-maintained rooms with excellent box-spring mattresses, Tibetan-style bedside tables and wicker-weave ceilings. The restaurant feels somewhat temple-like, and an oft-missed highlight is the delightful sitting room designed like an antique Ladakhi kitchen.
Slight let-downs include the bathrooms, which are clean but functional and with water that only runs hot from 6am to 9am and 6pm to 9pm, though solar installations should change that soon.