Run by Aussie Leon, this is an earthen-walled refuge with beautiful terracotta flooring, a colourful sari ceiling and five contemporary rooms. The Western food is fabulous, but the real coup are the interactions with tribal women on the property and trips to nearby villages and markets. Most guests come as part of tour packages, but individuals are also welcome.
Leon is passionate about local culture and protecting it from unscrupulous tour operators. He has books for guests to peruse on India's tribes. Sometimes he'll drive the guests around himself; other times he'll get a local guide to take guests to nearby markets and for walks around nearby villages, including the potters' village of Goudaguda that's right outside the front door.
To reach Chandoori Sai, take any bus between Koraput (40km) and Rayagada (70km) and get off at Kakirigumma; staff will then pick you up from there. Trains between Bhubaneswar and Koraput stop at nearby Kakirigumma. Three trains daily stop at Laxmipur Rd, 25km from Chandoori Sai, en route from Koraput to Kolkata. Call ahead for pick-up.