Kárpátia

A fin-de-sièclepalace dating from 1877, the ‘Carpathia’ serves almost-modern Hungarian and Transylvanian specialities in both a palatial restaurant in the back and a less-expensive söröző (brasserie). The mostly meaty dishes are expertly prepared and the Hungarian wine list is solid. This is one place to hear authentic csárdás (Gypsy-style folk music), played from 6pm to 11pm.