The De Frietas' remote and historic ranch is straight out of National Geographic, with three stilted timber guesthouses facing the distant Kanuku Mountains. Rooms are basic, with mosquito nets, but have an undeniable cowboy charm to them as well as solar power. Here you'll fill your days tracking harpy eagles, jaguars, giant anteaters, anacondas and the red siskin finch.
More adventurous types can join rangers in ranch work or even riding on a cattle drive to Lethem. Meals with the hammock/dorm option cost G$1000 for breakfast and G$2000 for dinner – a really great deal.