A few blocks below the Teatro Municipal, the colonial-style Modelo offers 19 atmospheric rooms with wooden floorboards, firm beds and spacious bathrooms. These are lined up alongside pretty patios with seasonal flower arrangements and an old-fashioned dining room with cupboards of china and a relaxed bar.
Look out for the many bright paintings by the celebrated Xela artist Zipacná de León – you can tell he was one of Picasso's godsons.