Set on 15 hectares of heavily forested valley overlooking Jalapa, this private reserve features 6km of well-signposted walking trails, taking in the small Cascada Altar and the more impressive 15m Catarata Tatasirire waterfalls. Some adventure activities are on offer in a beguiling combination of packages – check the website for details. The giant swings set in the forest come free.
The real charm of the place is to be found wandering the pine-needle-strewn mountain pathways with bubbling creeks and birdsong the only sounds you can hear. There are a couple of spots where you could swim (or at least take a dip), but the water's cold and the air is cooler than Jalapa below.
Campgrounds (campsite per person Q100) are basic with pit toilets and no showers, but they do provide camping equipment and rooms are available in the 'ecolodge' (r per person Q250) – a very rustic log-cabin affair with kitchen facilities and running water. If that doesn't appeal, the park makes an easy day trip from Jalapa – any bus headed towards Mataquescuintla can drop you here. They leave frequently from Jalapa (Q8, 30 minutes), from 5am to 4pm. The last one back from the park leaves at 5pm.