Palios Stathmos Hotel & Restaurant

This imposing 1903 wood-and-stone hotel stands near the narrow-gauge railway station, amid the plane trees; it's 800m down steep footpaths from the village square. Its balconied rooms are simple but comfortable. Both its indoor-outdoor restaurant – which serves good Greek standards (mains €7 to €12) – and espresso cafe stay open all day, and fill up when the Little Train is running.