Spanoioakis

Rethymno

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Hidden away in Rethymno's labyrinth of alleys is this bakery that's been at it since 1958. As well as freshly baked spanakopita and pastries, it's most famous for its bread shaped like dinosaurs and flamingos, as well as kouloures, a lacquered, intricately decorated (but inedible) embroidered bread that makes for a unique souvenir.

Found across Greece, the fading tradition of kouloures has its roots in Crete. In a practice passed down by his grandfather, baker Spanoioakis continues to create the decorated bread, including the wedding roll, the original Greek wedding cake. Each beautiful design is symbolic: pomegranates bring luck; trees, longevity; and rings, an eternal bond.

Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

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    Ideon Cave

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    Museum of Ancient Eleutherna

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    Melidoni Cave

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Nearby Rethymno attractions

1. Historical & Folk Art Museum

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In a lovely 17th-century Venetian mansion, the five-room permanent exhibit here documents traditional rural life on Crete with displays of clothing,…

2. Fortezza

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Looming over Rethymno, the star-shaped Venetian fortress cuts an imposing figure with its massive walls and bastions but was nevertheless unable to stave…

3. Museum of Contemporary Art

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The cornerstone of the permanent collection of this well-curated modern-art museum, founded in 1992, is the oils, drawings and watercolours of local lad…

4. Rimondi Fountain

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Another vestige of Venetian rule is this small fountain where water spouts from three lions’ heads into three basins flanked by Corinthian columns. Above…

5. Neratzes Mosque

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This triple-domed mosque began life as an Augustinian church and was converted by the Turks in 1657, although the recently restored minaret wasn't added…

6. Archaeological Museum of Rethymno

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Set inside the atmospheric Venetian-built Church of St Francis, this well-curated museum features a stunning collection of well-preserved relics unearthed…

7. Loggia

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This nicely restored 16th-century landmark originally served as a meeting house for Venetian nobility to discuss politics and money, and morphed into a…

8. Agios Spyridon Church

0.2 MILES

Built right into the cliff beneath the Venetian fortress, tiny Agios Spyridon has enough atmosphere to fill a cathedral. This Byzantine chapel is filled…