Thalassographia

With cascading terraces from fortress to sea, this is where locals head for dinner and unbeatable coastal views. The eclectic Mediterranean menu offers up skilfully created dishes like stuffed mushrooms, Cretan cheese in filo with smoked pork and herbs, roasted sardines or steamed mussels in white wine. It’s all best washed down with local Brink’s beer. If it’s windy, dress warmly.