A little out of the way, this is the place to go for rembetika (urban 'blues') and other unamplified strains of traditional Greek song. Three brothers started it in the 1958 house of their father, and they ensure everything – the home-cooked food, the carafes of juicy wine, the tables draped with wine-splattered cloths, and the music – stay perfect.
Georgiou Tsontou is accessed via a slip road from the multilane highway heading northwest from the centre. Taking a cab the 3.6km from Plateia Aristotelous should take 15 minutes and cost no more than €10.