Stoa Louli

Fronted by grand arches, this atmospheric place is set in a passage between 19th-century stone buildings. The solid, somewhat modernised Greek menu includes dishes like beetroot salad bejewelled with pistachio, roast aubergine with feta and garlic, and hunkar beyendi – tender pieces of beef on a bed of aubergine mash. There's live music Thursday to Saturday nights, and Sunday afternoon.