Church of Porta Panagia

To reach this superb little 13th-century Byzantine church in a lovely riverside setting, cross the Portaikos river in modern Pyli, 18km southwest of Trikala, then continue 1km upstream (left). Originally the katholikon (central church) of a monastery, it was the only building to survive the destruction of Pyli’s previous site by the Ottomans in 1822. Inside, you’ll find an impressive pair of mosaic icons; a pleasant garden cafe stands alongside.