This solitary fish taverna among the vestiges of Hania’s old tanneries in Halepa, 2km east of the centre, is one of Crete’s top restaurants. Take in the sunset from the superb waterside setting and peruse the changing menu, dictated by the day’s catch, which is cooked over charcoal. The fried calamari melts in your mouth.
There's an indoor restaurant, but it's all about the tables plonked on the sand next to the water here, so bring a jacket on cooler nights.