Varoulko

Chef Lefteris Lazarou, a Piraeus native, has been shaping Greek tastes since the 1980s, when he brought fish to the fine-dining menu. For years he had a Michelin-starred restaurant in Athens, but moved back to his roots in 2014. Michelin still approves, and his cooking remains elegant and creative. The setting in Mikrolimano, where sailboats bob, is lovely.