I Palaiopolis

'Old Town' is in a beautifully restored building that once housed an incense maker followed by a cigarette workshop. These days the aromas and flavours are equally diverse, thanks to the eclectic selection of modern Greek dishes: salted pork salad, Mani spaghetti (local noodles), and more traditional vegetable concoctions. There's an atmospheric stone-vaulted dining area and lovely rear courtyard.