You'll need to use your imagination to get much out of this ancient city site, which was one of the main centres of Colchis, flourishing from the 8th to 1st centuries BC. Some speculate that it could have been the city of King Aeëtes, where Jason came in search of the golden fleece. The museum here, connected to the site by a stylish bridge, was closed for refurbishment when we last visited, and was due to reopen by 2020 after years of building.
Excavations first started in the 1890s, after locals reported gold ornaments being washed down the hill after rains. Archaeologists have since found remains of monumental architecture and opulent burials. The museum’s treasures include a mix of originals and copies of fabulous gold adornments with incredibly fine animal designs.
The site itself is not developed for visitors but you can make out some temple areas, defensive walls, a deep ritual well, a small city gate and a section of paved street. Taking a tour, available in English by advance booking, brings it all to life.
Marshrutky to Vani (3 GEL, 1½ hours) leave Kutaisi’s main bus station hourly from 7am to 1pm (except 10am). From Vani’s bus station on the town's main roundabout, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the museum. A taxi from Kutaisi costs about 50 GEL return.