Beside the church at the top of Shenaqo, delightfully eccentric matriarch Darejan (Daro) offers seven bright, wood-floored and -walled rooms, all with multiple beds and most with private bathrooms. The food is a highlight here, with delicious home cooking and huge portions. Daro's daughter Irma speaks English, but Daro is a master communicator nonetheless.
Ask to see Daro's small 'musuem' of old Tushetian implements in her other house nearby.