Chef Emmanuel Bosset infuses French classics with playful influences (and plenty of wine and liqueur): squid with rabbit and chorizo, spring rolls with lashings of absinthe, and sorbet awash in bisongrass vodka. Weekday lunch menu Jéroboam, three courses plus wine, is good value (€26.50), while six-course menu Nabuchodonosor puts you happily at the chef's mercy.
There are kids' menus for budding gourmands, too (from €15).