The welcome from Catherine and Philippe couldn't be warmer when you check into this stately 19th-century mansion with plenty of original features. Wind your way up the marble stairs to individually decorated rooms like light-flooded 'Guilin' and – our favourite – Morocco-tinged 'Ménara' (complete with an Islamic table and embroidered slippers).
La Demeure d'Hortense
Top choice in Auvergne