Hidden in a cellar on Dole historic rue Pasteur, the 'Grain of Salt' feels instantly contemporary with flashes of violet and acid green against its ancient walls. The ever-evolving menus make daring use of seasonal produce: perhaps a vanilla and sweet potato amuse-bouche, fish on grain-free celeriac risotto, or hollowed-out clementines that conceal wonderfully light creams and custards.
Kids can share the gourmet experience (children's menus €11).