Le Scaramouche

Unexpectedly adventurous flavour combinations at this oyster-grey-fronted restaurant on a cobbled square range from Saint Rieul beer-marinated Welsh rarebit to blackcurrant-stewed beef served with parsnip mash, and pistachio îles flottantes (floating islands) with crème anglaise and raspberries. There's an airy, contemporary dining room but in fine weather the best seats are on the cathedral-facing timber-decked terrace.