Duck beneath the elegant stone arches of Marché St-Germain to uncover the stylish steakhouse of Paris' superstar butcher Hugo Desnoyer. Vegetarians be warned, there are some delicious veggie dishes too, but some of the walls in the sharp design interior are clad in ginger-and-cream cow-hide and the menu is essentially for meat lovers.
The good-value, daily plat du jour – simple roast beef, blanquette de veau (veal ragout) or hachis parmentier (French shepherd's pie) – chalked on the blackboard runs alongside a more sophisticated menu of more creative dishes such as hand-cut veal tartare, chilli-laced tripe and a trio of different beef cuts.