Queues stretch down the block from this authentic Italian trattoria where hams hang from the ceiling. Steaming pastas include pumpkin gnocchi with pecorino or smoked mozzarella, grilled courgette and basil; the pick of the wood-fired pizzas is the ricotta and buffalo mozzarella calzone. It doesn't take reservations; leave your number at the door and they'll phone when a table's free.
Ober Mamma
Le Marais, Ménilmontant & Belleville
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