Gilles Goujon’s wonderfully relaxed Auberge du Vieux Puits is tucked away in the hilltop village of Fontjoncouse, between Narbonne and Perpignan. Goujon’s known for his fondness for humble ingredients such as Bigorre pork, Galician beef, sole and John Dory. The menus (fixed-price meals) stretch between four and seven courses and include a ‘chariot of cheese’ that almost defies belief.
Double rooms start at €165.